Embracing the Carioca Lifestyle

“E aí, mermao, beleza?” (So what’s up buddy? Everything cool?).

Our car leaves the Baía de Guanabara passes by the old colonial districts, Flamengo and Botafago, below the towering Cristo Redentor (art deco, 1931) on Corcovado Mountain. We continue on, pass by the distinctive Pao de Açúcar Mountain on our left, and finally arrive at in Ipanema – the venue of choice for Cariocas.

‘Carioca’ is the nickname given by the Indians to the first white inhabitants in Rio (kara'ioca, meant "house of whites"). But it has come to epitomize a type of personality that can only be found in the Cidade Maravilhosa. Typically, they are 15-39 years-old natives who have adjusted their pace to the slow rhythm of the ocean waves, and have adopted a body language, a dress code and a way of speaking that evinces an attitude of total complacency and confident serenity. Cariocas are gentle, care-free and enthusiastic.

1. You will never be far away from the beach,
2. It is the most effective way to step out of a frantic rhythm back home, and
3. You are no longer an obvious prey for the violent gang youths strolling around from time to time.

Living with locals, my transition is smooth. I pick up my sandals, sunga (bathing suit), and sunglasses and headed off to Ipanema beach.

Ipanema, though not as exotic as the barren beaches of the Seychelles or the Caribbean, is arguably one of the most astonishing stretches of sand in the world. Crescent shaped, 2 km long, bounded on one end by the majestic Dois Irmaos and on the other by Arpoador, set at the feet of dramatic rock formations and bordered with coconut palm trees along its mosaic sidewalk, Ipanema is simply stunning from dawn to dusk.

Part of Ipanema's aura has to do with its enchanting history. In the '60s, Ipanema served as a rallying point for artists and musicians who no doubt found the magical setting fertile for their creative inspiration.

The most famous product from that generation is the bossa nova tune "Garota de Ipanema" by Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes:

"Olha que coisa mais Linda, mais cheia de graça, é ela menina, Que vem que passa Num doce balanço, caminho do mar"...

My Brazilian friend told me that the 'Girl from Ipanema' was the second most played song on the radio worldwide (on air every 15 seconds). It has been re-interpreted dozens of times over the last three decades, and has helped nurture a fascination for Rio in general, and Ipanema in particular.

It is worth noting as an aside that this immortal Garota does exist: her name is Heloisa Pinheiro. She is now 50 something and now runs a beauty parlour two streets behind the beach! In the '70s, the development of a new refined neighbourhood behind the beach moved Ipanema to the upper half of the social spectrum, and started to welcome rich European visitors (the first commercial Concorde flights were from Paris to Rio (not NYC!) in the 70s) in search of the Garota.

Today, Ipanema has retained its glamour (particularly in front of Lifeguard Station #10), and it is where you will find the latest fashion trends in beachwear. I note that because most tourist hotels are on Copacabana beach, Ipanema beach has a more local flavour.